Trips to Antarctica still partake of exploration, of something out of the ordinary, even for people who go on cruise ships. So it was not a surprize to find the Marco Polo displaying this banner as we prepared to leave Buenos Aires for the far south.

Being on an expedition, we had to have scientists, quite naturally, and we did. The captain called us all together and introduced us to our expedition geologist, naturalist, etc. The enrichment lecturers, or scientists, include Peter Hillary, son of you know who, who gave the most gripping lectures - but the bird expert stayed on the rear deck keeping track of species spotted as we went south and was to me the most engaging of our experts. Each day he recorded the species as they appeared - even as it grew quite cold he never failed to have a cluster of avid birders, some with elaborate cameras, gathered round him, their eyes and cameras following his arm as he pointed out a new bird.

South of Buenos Aires the population thins out, and you no longer have cities with all their pleasures and problems to wander through. Instead, you look for scenery and wildlife. The cruise ships stop at Puerto Madryn, Argentina, from which you can visit the nearby seal rookery by taxi, or the more distant penguin colony, by tour bus. This is the last port where the ship docks. All ports south until we return to South America at the end, are "tender" ports - ie you go ashore in lifeboats or zodiacs.

At West Point Island in the Falklands, we used the ship's lifeboats as tenders. This one is returning from dropping off the first batch of us on the island.

Further south we used the zodiacs as tenders. Here is how the Marco Polo looked as seen from a Zodiac at Culverville Island, in the Antarctic.
If the sea gets rough, you don't go ashore. I've been told that its a rare Antarctic voyage which is able to make all of its scheduled landings.

This zodiac in a storm at Half Moon Island, is returning to the ship with people evacuated from the shore after the weather suddenly got rough and caused the landings to be aborted. Most of us never got off the ship, this day, and those that did got to see why so few people live in the Antarctic.
There are no indigenous people in Antarctica. It is inhabited now by a few hundred scientists peopling the various small scientific bases that represent humanities slender foothold on the continent. This summer base is the furtherest north, thus presumably enjoying the most moderate climate of any of the bases. It is at Deception Island.

Both Argentina and Spain have bases here. I don't know which this is.
I've been on 5 of the 7 continents now, and the only place that looked like the image I had of it in my mind's eye was Antarctica.

Glaciers, and the icebergs that calve from them are mostly made up of blue ice, like this berg floating in Culverville Island's harbor. Below is the Chilean base at Paradise Harbor. Doesn't it look Antarctic to you?
